Subtraction Cutting.

Julian Roberts has developed an innovative method of pattern cutting in which you work with the negative image to construct the garment rather than making pieces to put together; you develop the piece from the inside out, with the hollow space within the garment that the body shall occupy. Despite being slightly difficult to get you head around to begin with, once you have mastered the technique it presents a great opportunity to play with chance and improvisation; producing individual creations everytime that represent the figure in various ways.

During Wednesdays studio time at Uni, the group which had been divided in to pairs for the task, each made a fully lined half scale dress between them using this new method.

To complete the process, you must have both pattern pieces for the front and back bodice, and the 'tunnel' pattern piece; and a rectangular sack of fabric (sewn together down 3 of 4 edges); from which you cut the positioned pieces out of the top layer.

I really found this new approach to pattern cutting very exciting as it was unclear how your garment would turn out right until the end of the process and it required an element of foresight in the play with improvisation. I would love to experiment further with Roberts' method, and could see the technique working well within my designs for this project.